New Orleans

Our Austin area morning started with a greeting from the park ranger who informed us that we were lucky, as the day before was so swelteringly hot, we probably wouldn't have been able to sleep in our tent. She proceeded to tell us that the reason we could stand there talking to each other without dripping sweat was a northerly breeze that came in before we did. Thank goodness for northerlies.
She was incredulous when we told her we were fixing to get to New Orleans that day, but we didn't let that stop us.

A delightful rest stop near the Louisiana border yielded plenty of lizard sightings and touchings,



while the Louisiana border itself yielded a fierce and pelting thunderstorm.

As we approached and eventually entered Louisiana, the scenery became even more lush. Swamps passed us on the right,


and frogs sang a chorus when we stopped to change drivers.

New Orleans

We got to New Orleans around 9:30 to stay with a McNally Family friend, John Flemming. John generously and graciously accepted us into his home (and his kitchen). John is an artist who makes beautiful leather masks,

and in the morning, he took us out to breakfast and directed us to New Orleans's points of interest. We are so grateful for John's help and hospitality.


Our first stop was the lower 9th Ward, which experienced some of the worst damage from Hurricane Katrina. The three of us agreed that seeing what really happened there was essential to our New Orleans experience. Three years after the levies broke, houses are still in disrepair.




The area is eerily quiet, and there are many spots where houses once stood which grasses and plants have reclaimed.

The sobering reality of the 9th Ward was followed by the surreal partiness of the French Quarter, where Bourbon street was loud and populated even at 4pm on a Thursday. Iced cafe au laits were procured at the Cafe du Monde and enjoyed on the banks of the Mississippi. Heather and Keith started out unimpressed, but soon warmed up to the murky water.

A toe in the Mississippi for Grandma Rycyk

Our search for dinner allowed us to walk around the French Quarter and Frenchman Street a little before heading off to Mississippi. Our first stop in Alabama was a gas station, where we discovered a would-be stow-away.


Our next stop was our first hotel - America's Best Value Inn in Evergreen, AL.

Now on to Georgia!

Texas

3 ways to know you're in Texas


Texas started off on the right foot, with first a trip through Border Patrol (who determined we were not Mexican, but took our word on our American citizenship), then the sight of a coyote crossing the road, and finally being pulled over by a real Texas highway patrol officer! He was very sneaky, parking his patrol car in the dark facing on-coming traffic, then flipping on his brights and woop-woops as we drove by. It was terrifying, but we managed to lose him for a little while. We were going not too fast, but when he caught up with us, he asked us to slow down and we did. All in all, a not un-pleasant exchange. We slept that night in the Balmorrhea State Park, a sort of suburban camping experience, with campsites laid out in rows covered by cement awnings. We set up the tent by a little stream and fell asleep to the humming and chirping of myriad bugs.

Texas Wildflowers & Peaches

The sparse and scratchy desert of West Texas gave way to lush & verdant landscapes as we drove East.



We left the interstate for the road bound for Austin, and marveled at the number and variety of wildflowers on the shoulder, as well as the sheep up ahead of us.



Peach Country was especially lovely and reminded us of Upstate New York. The peaches were delicious and tart. A stop on a country road off the highway was the perfect opportunity for the day's physical activity.




Swimming in Austin

After a couple of wrong turns and a tip from our old friend Greg Zehenter, we discovered for ourselves Austin's Barton Creek.

It was too fun and muddy to take pictures, so you'll have to use your imaginations. When we arrived at Zilker Park in Austin, the wind was so large and howling as to rip tree branches off trees and slam the car doors for you. Melanie estimated at least 35 knots and certainly gale force. We questioned the wisdom of swimming in such wind, but pressed on and soon the wind had moved on as well. Eventually we found the rope swing Greg had told us about, and after clandestinely changing into bathing suits in a public park, we each made our way into the lovely blue water. Keith remarked how much we looked like a commercial -- three beautiful girls laughing and swimming in the heart of Austin. Some turtles were discovered on a log, and a rainbow appeared overhead. We were where we were meant to be. The rope swing provided endless opportunities for fun, and prompted Melanie to let her head go underwater.
The swimming and water-treading left us famished, so we GOOG-411ed an open organic restaurant. We got an open vegetarian restaurant with organic rice.

Camping took place in a spooky and empty state park in the presence of stray cats, white lurking creatures, and more bugs than we knew could exist in one place. In the morning, it was beautiful.

L.A. - Arizona - New Mexico - El Paso

Leaving LA
Our LA Story concluded with a delicious and vegan Thai lunch, after which Greg directed us to the freeway and we were off.


We left LA on a high note, with a long-awaited glimpse of the Hollywood sign.


Melanie was finally happy,

and Heather decided her life's goal would be getting a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame.

Tinseltown sure left its mark on us!

Our first point of interest en route was the massive windmill city that has been constructed near Palm Springs. The turbines were eerily lifelike and strangely appealing. They were also everywhere.




Being in Arizona


Before too long we had made it out of California and into Arizona. The most cactuslike of any cactuses we had seen greeted us like butlers holding two glasses of wine.


There was no end of delight at the sight of these cactuses. We loved Arizona for its cactuses. Especially the little flowers on top.


Our Arizona night was spent at the Picacho Peak State Park, a relatively secluded and pristinely kept campground overlooking the interstate but nestled in Arizona mountains.


We got there late, with a full sky of stars to meet us. After the tent unsuccessfully attempted to be blown away, we settled into sleeping bags to watch a yellow half moon rise over the desert amidst Jupiter and millions of un-named constellations.

The night was periodically interrupted by brief but potent gusts of wind which grappled with the tent as if it were a sail. Heather was more than once startled out of sleep by the side of the tent folding in on her.

Tan and small birds with long beaks flitted around in the morning, and Keith and Melanie went running with tiny, fast and camoflauged lizards who didn't so much run as hover and zoom.

Tucson held the promise of hundreds of ostriches, more cactuses and a Whole Foods. It did not disappoint.

Car Talk
The days have consisted of long drives as expected, but we've been able to make the most of them. Snacking and knitting have been going beautifully.



Manifest Desiny 2: Sacagawea's Revenge, Erin's expertly crafted mix cd, pumped us up and mellowed us out through California and Arizona.

Keith turned into a book on tape by reading out loud Creating a Life Together, a book written specifically for people forming communities. It feels good to keep our eyes on the prize.


Calisthenics were carried out as usual.



"Thank you. It worked. Love, Gas Can"
Half-way between Las Cruces, New Mexico and El Paso, Texas, the car began sputtering and jerking, and we discovered it was out of gas. Luckily we were able to roll on the shoulder to about 3/4 of mile near a gas station exit. Heather and Keith took a stroll to the station and Melanie protected the car and rode the waves of shaking caused by the passage of moving vehicles. In the end, we decided it was the best possible way to run out of gas in the desert.



El Paso's Grande Burrito Adventure
Melanie was so happy to reach Texas, a place she's never been and has always wanted to be. As it was already evening, the search began for dinner, which became an epic quest for an El Paso burrito, which became a desperate need to find any open restaurant. We were satisfied by El Paso's own India Palace. El Paso itself was almost completely deserted, but we postulated that the string of dotted lights to the south of it was actually and in fact the Mexican border.

Now on to the next campsite somewhere in the heart of Texas, and then on to Austin. But first, two pictures for one Ben O'Brien:



Love,
Melanie, Heather & Keith

On The Road...

We got to L.A. last night at around 10:30 pm, after a full day of packing and only 5 hours of driving! Our first stop was Tisselmann Rd somewhere in the Joaquin Valley where we parked in the dirt, switched drivers & completed the day's calisthenics.


After a brief and not-very-confrontational confrontation near a Circle K, we enjoyed the drive past Magic Mountain and got a taste of real L.A. traffic! The palm trees and Dodger Stadium welcomed us to the City of Angels. We may have even seen the back of the Hollywood sign.

Our dear friend Gregg Zehentner accepted us into his home, which smells of lovely coconuts and is blessed with the sweet singing of many birds. We watched Unbeatable Banzuke for hours and loved it, while Gregg prepared us a dinner of chicken bones, egg shells and M&Ms.



We talked about the Creation Museum in Kentucky, and might try to visit it. We've also decided to get as far as we can in the Southwest today, and stay in Austin tomorrow, which we're very excited about. Today we are planning on eating and procuring food for later eating, and then hitting the road (a la Amelia Bedilia).

Until Arizona/New Mexico!

Love,
The Road Ghosts